Fabric Tips: Woven, Non-Woven, Knits, Interfacing PDF Resources!

We have made it to the end of my interminable PDf series! (There will be one final post with a big surprise though...) So this is the thirteeth and final post of collections of DOWNLOADABLE PDF pamphlets. I have gathered these from around the web - almost entirely from various American university cooperative extension programs or university archives of such. (If you are not familiar with extension programs, they are pretty cool. They date back to 1914 and are the precursor to community colleges.) Please note that these are historic resources. They may refer to methods and items that are no longer sold or considered safe (home dry cleaning with gasoline, I'm looking at you). Do not follow such advice without exploring modern resources and using your best judgement. This batch I have three lists as follows. Enjoy. Fabric Tips Wovens & Non-Wovens; General Fabric Info Fabric Tips: Interfacing Fabric Tips: Knits Fabric Tips Wovens & Non-Wovens; General Fabric Info
Year	Title	Author	Publisher
1950	Rayon Dress Fabrics: Their Selection, Behavior, Care	Elizabeth M. Birong	Montana State Univ.
1954	Sewing the New Fabrics	--	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1954	Man-Made Fibers and Fabrics	Helen Rocke	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1956	Suggestions for Sewing the Newer Fabrics	Julie E. Brekke	North Dakota State Univ.
1965	Wash and Wear Fabrics	Gerda Petersen	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1965	Laminated and Bonded Fabrics	Gerda Petersen	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1965	Leather	Gerda Petersen	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1965	Stretch Fabrics	Gerda Petersen	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1969	Vinyls and Simulated Leathers	Gerda Petersen	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1969	Sheers	Gerda Petersen	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1969	Laces	Gerda Petersen	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1972	Durable Press	Gerda Petersen	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1977	Working with Leather	Jane Speece	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1985	Wool and Wool Blends	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1986	Sewing the Silkies	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1988	Sewing with Denim	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1991	Sewing with Micro-Fibers	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1991	Micro-Fibers	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1997	Tencel Lyocell, the New Generic Fiber	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000	Sewing With Voile	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000	Sewing with Velveteen	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000	Sewing with Velvet	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000	Sewing with Microfibers	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000	Sewing with Tencel	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000	Sewing with Lycra Blends	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000	Sewing with Outerwear Sports Fabric	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000	Sewing with Rayon Challis	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000	Sewing with Sand-Washed Fabrics	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000	Sewing with Silky-Textured Fabrics	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2013	The Burn Test	from Mary Elliott, Elaine Zarse	Threads Magazine

Fabric Tips: Interfacing
Year	Title	Author	Publisher
1962	Interfacing	Marian Tudor, Freda Record	North Dakota State Univ.
1966	Interfacings	Gerda Petersen	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1981	Selecting and Using Interfacing	Marilyn Stryker	Kansas State Univ.
1993	Interfacings	Gerda Petersen, Kathleen Tolman	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2006	Selecting and Applying Interfacing	from Cynthia Klumpp	Texas A&M Univ.

Fabric Tips: Knits
Year	Title	Author	Publisher
2007	Fleece Facts	--	Utah State Univ.
1992	Clothing Management: Knit Know-How	Louise Young	Utah State Univ.
2007	Considerations for Knit fabrics	--	Utah State Univ.
1965	Knitted Fabrics	Georgia Petersen	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1980	All About Sewing Knits	Becky Saunders	Texas A&M Univ.
1992	Sewing with Knit Fabrics	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000	Sewing with Knits	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2006	Sewing with Knit Fabrics	Marjorie M. Baker from Linda Heaton, Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Kentucky

General Tips, Pressing, Sewing Preparation PDF resources

Tailoring Touches, 1974

From my apparently interminable supply, here is the twelfth post of DOWNLOADABLE PDF pamphlets. I have gathered these from around the web - almost entirely from various American university cooperative extension programs or university archives of such. (If you are not familiar with extension programs, they are pretty cool. They date back to 1914 and are the precursor to community colleges.)

Please note that these are historic resources. They may refer to methods and items that are no longer sold or considered safe (home dry cleaning with gasoline, I'm looking at you). Do not follow such advice without exploring modern resources and using your best judgement. This batch I have two lists: General Tips & Pressing and Preparation.

Enjoy!

General Tips
Year	Title	Author	Publisher
1940	Decorative Finishes for Home Sewing	Helen Rocke	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1944	Time Savers in Sewing	Helen Rocke	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1958	Finishes for Little Girls Dresses	Gerda Petersen	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1959	Fabrics for Quality and Beauty	Gerda Petersen	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1974	Tailoring Touches	Jane Speece	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1979	Guidelines for Quality Clothing Construction	Becky Culp	Texas A&M Univ.
1981	Shaping a Tailored Garment	Linda K . Biles	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1982	Facings Made Sew-Easy	Lenda Jo Anderson	Auburn Univ.
1982	How to Sew Faster	Lenda Jo Anderson	Auburn Univ.
1984	Topstitching	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1984	Sewing for Children	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1985	Short Cut Tailoring Techniques: Shoulder Shapes	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2004	Hand Stitches	Revised by Marjorie M. Baker	Univ. of Kentucky
2004	Measuring Up: Quality Standards for Sewn Items/Projects	Kay Hendrickson, Jan Killer, Nancy Mordhorst	4H at Pacific Northwest Extension (WA State, OR State, Univ. of ID)
2004	Clothing Quality Standards	(adapted from) Cynthia Klumpp	Texas A&M Univ.
2009	Bias Strips, Single and Continuous	Marjorie M. Baker	Univ. of Kentucky
2012	Sewing Technique: Backstitch (hand)	Sandra Bradshaw, Lindsay Maxfield, Teisha Thompson, Lindsey Shirley	Utah State Univ.
2012	Sewing Technique: Casing	Shanna Haws, Lindsey Shirley	Utah State Univ.
2012	Sewing Techniques: Straight Ruffle	Sarah Geer, Chanae Weller, Jen Giddens, Lindsey Shirley	Utah State Univ.
2012	Sewing Techniques: Circular Ruffle	Sarah Geer, Chanae Weller, Jen Giddens, Lindsey Shirley	Utah State Univ.

Pressing and Preparation
Year	Title	Author	Publisher
1960	Pressing Methods	Helen Rocke	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1960	Pressing Equipment	Helen Rocke	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1970	Follow that Grainline	Jane Speece	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1972	Pressing Equipment	Jane Speece	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1977	Pressing Methods	Thelma Thompson	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1979	Measure Your Sew - How: Pressing Points	Marlene Odle-Kemp	Texas A&M Univ.
1983	Follow That Grainline	Linda K . Biles	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1986	Sewing Ups and Downs: Placement of Fabric and/or Garment Pieces for Machine Sewing	Anna Marie White	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1991	Preparing Fabric for Use	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln

Seams, Seam Finishes, Darts, Gathers... PDFs

Machine Stitching and Tucks, 1955

From my apparently interminable supply, here is the eleventh post of DOWNLOADABLE PDF pamphlets. I have gathered these from around the web - almost entirely from various American university cooperative extension programs or university archives of such. (If you are not familiar with extension programs, they are pretty cool. They date back to 1914 and are the precursor to community colleges.)

Please note that these are historic resources. They may refer to methods and items that are no longer sold or considered safe (home dry cleaning with gasoline, I'm looking at you). Do not follow such advice without exploring modern resources and using your best judgement. This batch I have two lists: Seams and Seam Finishes; Darts, Gathers, Tucks, Pleats, etc.

Enjoy!

Seams and Seam Finishes
Year	Title	Author	Publisher
1981	Seam Finishes	Lenda Jo Anderson	Auburn Univ.
1981	Seam Finishes	Linda K . Biles	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1999	Seam Finishes for a Plain Seam	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2003	Seams and Seam Finishes	Linda Heaton	Univ. of Kentucky
2011	Sewing Technique- Flat-Felled Seam	Jen Giddens, Sarah Geer, Lindsey Shirley, Chanae Weller	Utah State Univ.
2012	Sewing Technique- French Seam	Sarah Geer, Jen Giddens, Chanae Weller, Lindsey Shirley	Utah State Univ.
2012	Creating a Well-Constructed Machine Stitch	Sarah Geer, Lindsey Shirley	Utah State Univ.
2012	Sewing Techniques: Basting Stitch	Shanna Haws, Lindsey Shirley	Utah State Univ.
2014	Seams and Seam Finishes	Linda Heaton, Marjorie M. Baker	Univ. of Kentucky

Darts, Gathers, Tucks, Pleats etc.
Year	Title	Author	Publisher
1955	Machine Stitching and Tucks	Helen Rocke	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2007	Darts, Ease, Gathers, Pleats, Shirring, Tucks	Revised by Marjorie M. Baker	Univ. of Kentucky
2012	Sewing Technique: Box Pleat	Sandra Bradshaw, Lindsay Maxfield, Teisha Thompson, Lindsey Shirley	Utah State Univ.
2012	Sewing Technique: Knife Pleats	Sandra Bradshaw, Lindsay Maxfield, Teisha Thompson, Lindsey Shirley	Utah State Univ.
2012	Sewing Technique: Darts	Sandra Bradshaw, Lindsay Maxfield, Teisha Thompson, Lindsey Shirley	Utah State Univ.

Mending: The Hemmed Patch

THE HEMMED PATCH Right handers should sew right to left (as shown) and Lefties, left to right.

Introduction

For this series I am going through an old sewing book and experimenting with the projects within it. The book is called "The Sewing Book, Containing Complete Instructions in Sewing and Simple Garment-making for Children in Primary and Grammar Grades," Edited by Anne L. Jessup, Published by the Butterick Publishing Company, New York NY, 1913. The book is out of copyright (and free to all). It has been scanned as part of the Google Books effort and is available in various formats, visit https://books.google.com/books/about/The_Sewing_Book.html?id=b7wwAQAAMAAJ

Hemmed Patch

[Practice] Supplies

Checked or Striped Gingham, 5 by 5 inches and 3 by 3 inches; White Cotton, no. 50; Needle, No. 8, etc.

[Instructions]

Fold the larger piece of material and cut as before [Fold the larger square diagonally in half and fold again point to point. Measure down from the top of the triangle an inch on each side and cut across, making a square hole in the center representing the hold in the garment where the worn part of the goods around the hold has been cut away evenly.]. If the square is not perfectly accurate, pull a thread of the material at the sides and test the evenness of the edge. In each corner make a diagonal cut a quarter of an inch in depth. If the edges are not cut on a thread and the diagonal cuts in the corners are not the same depth, the patch will look badly.

Turn the edges down on the wrong side of the patch the depth of the cut; place the patch agaist these turned edges, basting the larger piece of goods over the patch, with the tripes or plaids matching. (Ill. No. 3.)

Hem on the right side, and avoid beginning or ending in a corner. Turn to the wrong side and hem the patch on the garment like a flat fell, turning in a quarter of an inch fold. (Ill. No. 4.) This hem or fell should be half an inch in depth.

Note:-- Care must be taken to hold the work properly in hemming the patch down on the wrong side, sewing always from right to left [left handers should work left to right], the stitches being nearly paralell with the edge of the fold and not vertical.

This patch is suitable for any cotton garment which requires laundering or for bed linen. The finished edge makes it strong, but it shows the double row of hemming.i

My Practice Patch

Front view

Front view close up

View from Wrong Side

View from Wrong Side Close Up

Book page with Hemmed Patch Instructions and Illustration

Work in Progress Pictures

squaring off the hole

marking corner cuts

Pressed under edges

Pressed under edges wrong side

I wanted to baste down these edges

Then you press under the edges of the patch (no need to cut off corners) and baste it down under the patch 

Stitching in progress

This shows the basting holding it together as I stitch

Comments

My main piece of advice is be careful about cutting the corners on the garment as you can see in the close up, right side that one corner looks rough. Next piece of advice: when making the hemming stitch, if the needle is at an angle the stitch will look straight vertical, the back side will show a diagonal stitch. I was doing it with the needle vertical, showing a diagonal stitch on the front and vertical on the back (you can see this in the blue thread in the center of the hole).

This is 100% my favorite patch, and I did five kinds. This patch is WASHABLE and with both edges hidden, will not fray. I recommend this patch for all items that go in the washer and dryer.