Showing posts with label resource. Show all posts
Showing posts with label resource. Show all posts

Friday, January 28, 2022

Make Do and Mend for free download

Make Do and Mend (1943)
I heard of "Make do and mend" years ago - as a concept. More recently, I was exploring my mending resources and I realized I did not have a copy of any British pamphlets from the World War II era when  "Make Do and Mend" was a thing. Obviously I googled away, but it was not available anywhere I could find.
Then it dawned on me I could just buy it, because such pamphlets were widely distributed. Reproduction prints are available but it's not worth it, because the real thing is available for less. So I bought a 1943 copy from ebay.co.uk, then I scanned it and cleaned it up for you. For YOU, dear reader. (If you're wondering, copyright has expired.)
That's right: free, downloadable, and printable! 

Context

This pamphlet "Make Do and Mend" was published while the UK was fighting the Nazis in WWII. Many everyday products that were imported to the country, like food, became scarce due to submarine attacks on cargo ships. At the same time, local production was focused on supplying the soldiers on the front line. Everything from wool for uniforms, silk for parachutes and maps, leather for boots, metal for munitions, rubber for tires, even soap and paper -- everything you could think of -- became hard to find, expensive, and even rationed.
As a result of the war, householders had to "make do" with things they already had. Decorative gardens were plowed under to become vegetable gardens, new fashions a thing of the past, and everyone had to get good at repairing things or making do without.
The booklet I have uploaded is focused on mending clothing. Lots of different things are covered, from repairing holes and wear in everything from stockings to overalls to towels; repurposing larger clothes into smaller clothes; modifying too-small or worn-out clothes to extend their life; and unpicking knitted items to reuse the woolen yarn in something else.
There are a few things to keep in mind. For starters, all clothes at the time were made of natural fibers or rayon (a semi-synthetic fiber made of wood). So all those great indestructible polyester fabrics you see in disco suits at the thrift store were not around during the war. Also, women were "traditionally" expected to do all the household labor and had to know how to: sew items from scratch and make repairs; knit; crochet; and make or at least embellish other items like hats. Not to mention do all the laundry for the household along with all the ironing (this helped extend the life of garments) and you know... all the other chores. Cooking, gardening, tidying, shopping, keeping up the utilities, organzing repair specialists (for machines, carpentry, etc)... All of it.
So there's your context! I find the topic of wartime making-do to be pretty interesting, so if you have any questions please, the comment area is open!

Wednesday, October 5, 2016

Fabric Tips: Woven, Non-Woven, Knits, Interfacing PDF Resources!


We have made it to the end of my interminable PDf series! (There will be one final post with a big surprise though...)

So this is the thirteeth and final post of collections of DOWNLOADABLE PDF pamphlets. I have gathered these from around the web - almost entirely from various American university cooperative extension programs or university archives of such. (If you are not familiar with extension programs, they are pretty cool. They date back to 1914 and are the precursor to community colleges.)



Please note that these are historic resources. They may refer to methods and items that are no longer sold or considered safe (home dry cleaning with gasoline, I'm looking at you). Do not follow such advice without exploring modern resources and using your best judgement. This batch I have three lists as follows. Enjoy.
  1. Fabric Tips Wovens & Non-Wovens; General Fabric Info
  2. Fabric Tips: Interfacing
  3. Fabric Tips: Knits


Fabric Tips Wovens & Non-Wovens; General Fabric Info

Year Title Author Publisher
1950 Rayon Dress Fabrics: Their Selection, Behavior, Care Elizabeth M. Birong Montana State Univ.
1954 Sewing the New Fabrics -- Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1954 Man-Made Fibers and Fabrics Helen Rocke Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1956 Suggestions for Sewing the Newer Fabrics Julie E. Brekke North Dakota State Univ.
1965 Wash and Wear Fabrics Gerda Petersen Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1965 Laminated and Bonded Fabrics Gerda Petersen Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1965 Leather Gerda Petersen Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1965 Stretch Fabrics Gerda Petersen Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1969 Vinyls and Simulated Leathers Gerda Petersen Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1969 Sheers Gerda Petersen Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1969 Laces Gerda Petersen Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1972 Durable Press Gerda Petersen Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1977 Working with Leather Jane Speece Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1985 Wool and Wool Blends Rose Marie Tondl Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1986 Sewing the Silkies Rose Marie Tondl Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1988 Sewing with Denim Rose Marie Tondl Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1991 Sewing with Micro-Fibers Rose Marie Tondl Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1991 Micro-Fibers Rose Marie Tondl Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1997 Tencel Lyocell, the New Generic Fiber Rose Marie Tondl Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000 Sewing With Voile Rose Marie Tondl Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000 Sewing with Velveteen Rose Marie Tondl Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000 Sewing with Velvet Rose Marie Tondl Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000 Sewing with Microfibers Rose Marie Tondl Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000 Sewing with Tencel Rose Marie Tondl Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000 Sewing with Lycra Blends Rose Marie Tondl Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000 Sewing with Outerwear Sports Fabric Rose Marie Tondl Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000 Sewing with Rayon Challis Rose Marie Tondl Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000 Sewing with Sand-Washed Fabrics Rose Marie Tondl Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000 Sewing with Silky-Textured Fabrics Rose Marie Tondl Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2013 The Burn Test from Mary Elliott, Elaine Zarse Threads Magazine

Fabric Tips: Interfacing

Year Title Author Publisher
1962 Interfacing Marian Tudor, Freda Record North Dakota State Univ.
1966 Interfacings Gerda Petersen Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1981 Selecting and Using Interfacing Marilyn Stryker Kansas State Univ.
1993 Interfacings Gerda Petersen, Kathleen Tolman Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2006 Selecting and Applying Interfacing from Cynthia Klumpp Texas A&M Univ.

Fabric Tips: Knits

Year Title Author Publisher
2007 Fleece Facts -- Utah State Univ.
1992 Clothing Management: Knit Know-How Louise Young Utah State Univ.
2007 Considerations for Knit fabrics -- Utah State Univ.
1965 Knitted Fabrics Georgia Petersen Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1980 All About Sewing Knits Becky Saunders Texas A&M Univ.
1992 Sewing with Knit Fabrics Rose Marie Tondl Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000 Sewing with Knits Rose Marie Tondl Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2006 Sewing with Knit Fabrics Marjorie M. Baker from Linda Heaton, Rose Marie Tondl Univ. of Kentucky

General Tips, Pressing, Sewing Preparation PDF resources

Tailoring Touches, 1974


From my apparently interminable supply, here is the twelfth post of DOWNLOADABLE PDF pamphlets. I have gathered these from around the web - almost entirely from various American university cooperative extension programs or university archives of such. (If you are not familiar with extension programs, they are pretty cool. They date back to 1914 and are the precursor to community colleges.)

Please note that these are historic resources. They may refer to methods and items that are no longer sold or considered safe (home dry cleaning with gasoline, I'm looking at you). Do not follow such advice without exploring modern resources and using your best judgement. This batch I have two lists: General Tips & Pressing and Preparation.

Enjoy!

General Tips

Year Title Author Publisher
1940 Decorative Finishes for Home Sewing Helen Rocke Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1944 Time Savers in Sewing Helen Rocke Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1958 Finishes for Little Girls Dresses Gerda Petersen Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1959 Fabrics for Quality and Beauty Gerda Petersen Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1974 Tailoring Touches Jane Speece Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1979 Guidelines for Quality Clothing Construction Becky Culp Texas A&M Univ.
1981 Shaping a Tailored Garment Linda K . Biles Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1982 Facings Made Sew-Easy Lenda Jo Anderson Auburn Univ.
1982 How to Sew Faster Lenda Jo Anderson Auburn Univ.
1984 Topstitching Rose Marie Tondl Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1984 Sewing for Children Rose Marie Tondl Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1985 Short Cut Tailoring Techniques: Shoulder Shapes Rose Marie Tondl Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2004 Hand Stitches Revised by Marjorie M. Baker Univ. of Kentucky
2004 Measuring Up: Quality Standards for Sewn Items/Projects Kay Hendrickson, Jan Killer, Nancy Mordhorst 4H at Pacific Northwest Extension (WA State, OR State, Univ. of ID)
2004 Clothing Quality Standards (adapted from) Cynthia Klumpp Texas A&M Univ.
2009 Bias Strips, Single and Continuous Marjorie M. Baker Univ. of Kentucky
2012 Sewing Technique: Backstitch (hand) Sandra Bradshaw, Lindsay Maxfield, Teisha Thompson, Lindsey Shirley Utah State Univ.
2012 Sewing Technique: Casing Shanna Haws, Lindsey Shirley Utah State Univ.
2012 Sewing Techniques: Straight Ruffle Sarah Geer, Chanae Weller, Jen Giddens, Lindsey Shirley Utah State Univ.
2012 Sewing Techniques: Circular Ruffle Sarah Geer, Chanae Weller, Jen Giddens, Lindsey Shirley Utah State Univ.


Pressing and Preparation

Year Title Author Publisher
1960 Pressing Methods Helen Rocke Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1960 Pressing Equipment Helen Rocke Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1970 Follow that Grainline Jane Speece Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1972 Pressing Equipment Jane Speece Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1977 Pressing Methods Thelma Thompson Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1979 Measure Your Sew - How: Pressing Points Marlene Odle-Kemp Texas A&M Univ.
1983 Follow That Grainline Linda K . Biles Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1986 Sewing Ups and Downs: Placement of Fabric and/or Garment Pieces for Machine Sewing Anna Marie White Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1991 Preparing Fabric for Use Rose Marie Tondl Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln

Tuesday, October 4, 2016

Seams, Seam Finishes, Darts, Gathers... PDFs

Machine Stitching and Tucks, 1955
From my apparently interminable supply, here is the eleventh post of DOWNLOADABLE PDF pamphlets. I have gathered these from around the web - almost entirely from various American university cooperative extension programs or university archives of such. (If you are not familiar with extension programs, they are pretty cool. They date back to 1914 and are the precursor to community colleges.)

Please note that these are historic resources. They may refer to methods and items that are no longer sold or considered safe (home dry cleaning with gasoline, I'm looking at you). Do not follow such advice without exploring modern resources and using your best judgement. This batch I have two lists: Seams and Seam Finishes; Darts, Gathers, Tucks, Pleats, etc.

Enjoy!


Seams and Seam Finishes

Year Title Author Publisher
1981 Seam Finishes Lenda Jo Anderson Auburn Univ.
1981 Seam Finishes Linda K . Biles Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1999 Seam Finishes for a Plain Seam Rose Marie Tondl Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2003 Seams and Seam Finishes Linda Heaton Univ. of Kentucky
2011 Sewing Technique- Flat-Felled Seam Jen Giddens, Sarah Geer, Lindsey Shirley, Chanae Weller Utah State Univ.
2012 Sewing Technique- French Seam Sarah Geer, Jen Giddens, Chanae Weller, Lindsey Shirley Utah State Univ.
2012 Creating a Well-Constructed Machine Stitch Sarah Geer, Lindsey Shirley Utah State Univ.
2012 Sewing Techniques: Basting Stitch Shanna Haws, Lindsey Shirley Utah State Univ.
2014 Seams and Seam Finishes Linda Heaton, Marjorie M. Baker Univ. of Kentucky

Darts, Gathers, Tucks, Pleats etc.

Year Title Author Publisher
1955 Machine Stitching and Tucks Helen Rocke Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2007 Darts, Ease, Gathers, Pleats, Shirring, Tucks Revised by Marjorie M. Baker Univ. of Kentucky
2012 Sewing Technique: Box Pleat Sandra Bradshaw, Lindsay Maxfield, Teisha Thompson, Lindsey Shirley Utah State Univ.
2012 Sewing Technique: Knife Pleats Sandra Bradshaw, Lindsay Maxfield, Teisha Thompson, Lindsey Shirley Utah State Univ.
2012 Sewing Technique: Darts Sandra Bradshaw, Lindsay Maxfield, Teisha Thompson, Lindsey Shirley Utah State Univ.

Thursday, September 29, 2016

Measurement Chart for Women: Fillable, Printable PDF

Free Women's Measuring Chart and Guide Download now
JUST A SAMPLE, the real thing is readable.

If you sew women's clothes, or want to, one essential element is a list of accurate body measurements. I simply cannot understate how important this is to have. In the interest of making my life easier and your life easier, I have made a chart of all the measurements you will need to make garments for any woman you measure.

This chart lists thirty-four separate dimensions of the body. Take them all or just take the ones needed for the garment you want. This chart has all the appropriate dimensions for tops, dresses, skirts, pants and shorts, jumpsuits, and outerwear. (Glove, shoe/sock, and bra-specific measurements not listed.)

You will never need another women's measurement chart.

Do you think I should modify this chart? Let me know in the comments!

This post has been reposted from original post date of 1/16/14, to share the new, updated chart.
  • Spreadsheet version
    • This file is just the chart.
    • View, print, or save just the blank chart as a spreadsheet or PDF.
    • Save a version to your own machine or cloud to fill out, modify, or whatever you want.
  • PDF version
    • This PDF has two pages: one is the chart, the other is a diagram guide.
    • View, print, or save the blank chart.
    • This PDF is a fillable form, save to your machine or cloud to fill out (if you use a mac and want it to stay filled out on another computer, use the save as PDF option in the print menu, won't be re-editable but will be readable).

Tuesday, September 27, 2016

Sewing help PDFs: Zippers, snaps, hooks, eyes, buttons, buttonholes, elastic, etc!

Exhalted Notions, 1971

From my apparently interminable supply, here is the ninth post of DOWNLOADABLE PDF pamphlets. I have gathered these from around the web - almost entirely from various American university cooperative extension programs or university archives of such. (If you are not familiar with extension programs, they are pretty cool. They date back to 1914 and are the precursor to community colleges.)

Please note that these are historic resources. They may refer to methods and items that are no longer sold or considered safe (home dry cleaning with gasoline, I'm looking at you). Do not follow such advice without exploring modern resources and using your best judgement. This batch I have one list, Fasteners and Elastics.

Enjoy!


Fasteners & Elastics

Year Title Author Publisher
1955 Knots and Loops Helen Rocke Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1961 Easy Zipper Methods Anna Marie Kreifels Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1971 Bound Buttonholes Jane Speece Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1971 Exalted Notions Jane Speece Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1973 Zipper Methods Anna Marie Kreifels, Jane Speece Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1983 Buttonholes and Buttons Made Sew-Easy Evelyn L. Brannon Auburn Univ.
2000 Sewing with Elastic Rose Marie Tondl Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2004 Hooks and Eyes, Snaps, and Tape Fasteners Revised by Marjorie M. Baker Univ. of Kentucky
2004 Hand Zippers Revised by Marjorie M. Baker Univ. of Kentucky
2007 Zippers Revised by Marjorie M. Baker Univ. of Kentucky
2007 Buttons and Buttonholes Revised by Marjorie M. Baker Univ. of Kentucky
2010 Machine Buttonholes Made Easy Revised by Robin C. Mack New Mexico State Univ.
2011 Sewing Technique: Centered Zipper Sara Geer, Jen Giddens, Chance Weller, Lindsey Shirley Utah State Univ.
2011 Sewing Technique: Hand Worked Keyhole Buttonhole Jen Giddens, Sarah Geer, Lindsey Shirley, Chanae Weller
2012 Sewing Technique: Invisible Zipper Jen Giddens, Sarah Geer, Lindsey Shirley, Chanae Weller Utah State Univ.
2012 Sewing Technique: Lapped Zipper Sandra Bradshaw, Lindsay Maxfield, Teisha Thompson, Lindsey Shirley Utah State Univ.
2012 Sewing Technique: Buttons Sandra Bradshaw Utah State Univ.
2012 Sewing Technique: Attaching Garment Fasteners Sandra Bradshaw, Teisha Thompson, Lindsay Maxfield, Lindsey Shirley Utah State Univ.

Wednesday, September 14, 2016

Sewing Machines, Sergers, Needles, Threads, Reference Charts - PDFs!



Here is another list of DOWNLOADABLE PDF pamphlets I have gathered from around the web - almost entirely from various American university cooperative extension programs or university archives of such. (If you are not familiar with extension programs, they are pretty cool. They date back to 1914 and are the precursor to community colleges.) This is the fifth post in my Resource series.

Please note that these are historic resources. They may refer to methods and items that are no longer sold or considered safe (home dry cleaning with gasoline, I'm looking at you). Do not follow such advice without exploring modern resources and using your best judgement. This batch I have two lists: Sewing Machines and Sergers; and Needles, Threads, Glossaries, Charts.

Enjoy!

Sewing Machines and Sergers

Year Title Author Publisher
1932 Know Your Sewing Machine Paul R. Hoff Univ. Nebraska, Lincoln
1943 Your Sewing Machine: Care and Adjustment Lucy R. Lane Oregon State Univ.
1950 Cleaning and Adjusting Your Sewing Machine Helen Rocke, John C. Steele Univ. Nebraska, Lincoln
1950 Buying a Sewing Machine Julia E. Brekke North Dakota Ag. College
1956 Your Sewing Machine Julia E. Brekke North Dakota Ag. College
1956 Satisfaction from Your Sewing Machine Helen Rocke Univ. Nebraska, Lincoln
1979 Measure Your Sew - How: Sewing Tools Becky Saunders Texas A&M Univ.
1981 Measure Your Sew - How: Thread Tips Ann Vanderpoorten Texas A&M Univ.
1981 Measure Your Sew - How: Solving Common Sewing Machine Problems Beverly Rhoades Texas A&M Univ.
1992 Clothing Management: Serger Sense Louise Young Utah State University
1993 Buying a Serger Rose Marie Tondl, Kathleen Heiden Univ. Nebraska, Lincoln
1996 What You Ought To Know About Sewing Machine Needles Rose Marie Tondl Univ. Nebraska, Lincoln
2007 Serger Basics Marjorie Baker Univ. of Kentucky
2008 Selecting a Serger Marjorie Baker Univ. of Kentucky

Needles, Threads, Glossaries, Charts...

Year Title Author Publisher
1969 As you Sew with Suitable Thread Gerda Petersen Univ. Nebraska, Lincoln
1991 Thread Facts Rose Marie Tondl, Wendy Rich Univ. Nebraska, Lincoln
2002 A Thread of Truth: A Factual Look at Sewing Thread -- YLI Corp.
2006 Glossary of Sewing Terms from Cynthia Klumpp Texas A&M Univ.
2006 Personal Measurement Chart from Becky Culp Texas A&M Univ.
2008 Basic Sewing Supplies Debra Proctor, Ronda H. Olsen, Karen Biers Utah State Univ.
2011 Sewing Glossary Sarah Geer, Lindsey Shirley Utah State Univ.
2011 Finest Quality Hand Sewing Needles

--
John James Needles
2016 Women's Measurement Chart

--
Handmade on Broadway

Tuesday, August 23, 2016

Clothing Repair, Economy, and Restyling Downloadable PDFs

Repair of Clothing and Household Linens


It was years ago (the 70s?) that environmental interests came up with the slogan "recycle, reduce, reuse." Decades before that, in the midst of WWII, came "make do and mend." In the spirit of both, I have been looking for ways to make the most of the clothing I already own.

Here is a list of DOWNLOADABLE PDF pamphlets I have gathered from around the web - almost entirely from various American university cooperative extension programs or university archives of such. (If you are not familiar with extension programs, they are pretty cool. They date back to 1914 and are the precursor to community colleges.) I do have a large collection of these PDFs and hopefully this list will be followed by others.

 Please note that these are historic resources. They may refer to methods and items that are no longer sold or considered safe (home dry cleaning with gasoline, I'm looking at you). Do not follow such advice without exploring modern resources and using your best judgement. This first batch I have categorized as Clothing Repair, Economy, and Restyling.

Clothing Repair, Economy, and Restyling

YearTitleAuthorPublisher
1938Repair of Clothing and Household LinensHelen RockeUniv. Nebraska, Lincoln
1942Make Do and Mend for Victory--The Spool Cotton Co.
1943Clothing the Family in WartimeHelen RockeUniv. Nebraska, Lincoln and USDA
1943Fall and Winter ClothesHelen RockeUniv. Nebraska, Lincoln
1943Make Do and MendBoard of TradeMinistry of Information, United Kingdom
1946Clothing Pointers for '46Helen RockeUniv. Nebraska, Lincoln and USDA
1951New Clothes From OldAllegra WilkinsUniv. Nebraska, Lincoln and USDA
1962Repairing GarmentsAnna Marie KriefelsUniv. Nebraska, Lincoln
1962Reinforcing ReadymadesAnna Marie KriefelsUniv. Nebraska, Lincoln and USDA
1971Restyling or Remodeling a GarmentJane Speece, Gerda PetersenUniv. Nebraska, Lincoln and USDA
1971Restyling Sweater KnitsJane SpeeceUniv. Nebraska, Lincoln and USDA
1971Relining Coats and JacketsJane SpeeceUniv. Nebraska, Lincoln and USDA
1971Inset (Overall) PatchJane SpeeceUniv. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1972Altering Ready-Made DressesAnna Marie Kriefels, Jane SpeeceUniv. Nebraska, Lincoln