Mending: The Catch-Stitch Patch

Introduction

For this series I am going through an old sewing book and experimenting with the projects within it. The book is called "The Sewing Book,  Containing Complete Instructions in Sewing and Simple Garment-making for Children in Primary and Grammar Grades," Edited by Anne L. Jessup, Published by the Butterick Publishing Company, New York NY, 1913. The book is out of copyright (and free to all). It has been scanned as part of the Google Books effort and is available in various formats, visit https://books.google.com/books/about/The_Sewing_Book.html?id=b7wwAQAAMAAJ

Catch-stitched Patch

[Practice] Supplies

Flannel, either striped or plain, 5 by 5 inches, and 3 by 3 inches; Cotton, no. 60 or sewing silk the color of the flannel; Needle, No. 8, etc.

[Instructions]

This patch is suitable for underwear. Cut away the torn part, forming a square hole. Baste the patch under the hole, matching the warp and woof lines. Catch-stitch on the right side, taking the lower stitches just below the edge, the upper ones about a quarter of an inch above the edge. Turn to the wrong side and catch-stitch the patch to the garment. The edge of the patch should not extend more than three-quarters of an inch on the wrong side around the square.

Note

The single edges are used in this patch to avoid the thickness of folded edges of material of this kind. The stitches should be small and very even, one being taken diagonally in each corner.

My Practice Patch

My Comments

We may be most familiar with flannel as cotton "flannelette," in things like winter pajamas and plaid shirts. Wool flannel is still available today.  See some flannel underwear here.
When I made this sample patch, I had no wool flannel scraps. I used some cotton flannelette. Obviously the black/blue side is the right side and the white side is the wrong side. As you can see my hand stitches are uneven. For that reason I would only do this kind of patch on a solid fabric where the stitching would be less visible on the front. If your stitches are even, then that wouldn't be a problem. The front stitching (first in instructions) was easy to execute. The stitching on the back seemed just as easy but after refreshing my memory on the catch-stitch, it turns out I should have taken the lower part of the stitch through both layers of fabric. That would add some more stability. These stitches are barely visible on the front, which is nice.
I would recommend this type of patch if you know the fabric won't show (e.g. underwear is covered up), won't fray (or won't be washed or hard-worn), if it is dyed through (not a print like the flannelette I used as the white shows in little bits on the front), and if the fabric is too thick or uncooperative for other types of patches.
This patch is designed for be made with hand stitching (but it's only one kind of stitch, which is nice and easy). To machine stitch this patch perhaps a zig-zag or better yet three-step zig-zag would work. However these stitches will show more, by which I mean the second line of stitching that is worked from the wrong side will be just as visible on the front as the first right-side stitches. Other patches are better suited to machine stitching.

The Catch-Stitch

Because I'm so nice, I'm also providing the catch-stitch instructions from the book with added left handed instructions because duh.

Clothing Repair, Economy, and Restyling Downloadable PDFs

Repair of Clothing and Household Linens

It was years ago (the 70s?) that environmental interests came up with the slogan "recycle, reduce, reuse." Decades before that, in the midst of WWII, came "make do and mend." In the spirit of both, I have been looking for ways to make the most of the clothing I already own.

Here is a list of DOWNLOADABLE PDF pamphlets I have gathered from around the web - almost entirely from various American university cooperative extension programs or university archives of such. (If you are not familiar with extension programs, they are pretty cool. They date back to 1914 and are the precursor to community colleges.) I do have a large collection of these PDFs and hopefully this list will be followed by others.

 Please note that these are historic resources. They may refer to methods and items that are no longer sold or considered safe (home dry cleaning with gasoline, I'm looking at you). Do not follow such advice without exploring modern resources and using your best judgement. This first batch I have categorized as Clothing Repair, Economy, and Restyling.

Clothing Repair, Economy, and Restyling

Year	Title	Author	Publisher
1938	Repair of Clothing and Household Linens	Helen Rocke	Univ. Nebraska, Lincoln
1942	Make Do and Mend for Victory	--	The Spool Cotton Co.
1943	Clothing the Family in Wartime	Helen Rocke	Univ. Nebraska, Lincoln and USDA
1943	Fall and Winter Clothes	Helen Rocke	Univ. Nebraska, Lincoln
1943	Make Do and Mend	Board of Trade	Ministry of Information, United Kingdom
1946	Clothing Pointers for '46	Helen Rocke	Univ. Nebraska, Lincoln and USDA
1951	New Clothes From Old	Allegra Wilkins	Univ. Nebraska, Lincoln and USDA
1962	Repairing Garments	Anna Marie Kriefels	Univ. Nebraska, Lincoln
1962	Reinforcing Readymades	Anna Marie Kriefels	Univ. Nebraska, Lincoln and USDA
1971	Restyling or Remodeling a Garment	Jane Speece, Gerda Petersen	Univ. Nebraska, Lincoln and USDA
1971	Restyling Sweater Knits	Jane Speece	Univ. Nebraska, Lincoln and USDA
1971	Relining Coats and Jackets	Jane Speece	Univ. Nebraska, Lincoln and USDA
1971	Inset (Overall) Patch	Jane Speece	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1972	Altering Ready-Made Dresses	Anna Marie Kriefels, Jane Speece	Univ. Nebraska, Lincoln

Quick Hit: Basting Stage of my Diagonal Stripe Dress

The pattern is Simplicity 1586. It is a basic princess-seamed sheath. I did do a muslin (and did, oh, six fittings?).

Look at that striiiiipe

Quick hit: dress in progress

Could not resist this pixelated ombré diagonal stripe (!!) printed polyester "stretch chiffon". Am making a princess dress. Why? For bike rides.

Little Grey Job Interview Dress: Simplicity 1277

dress front

 

back view

side view

I don't have it in me to do another write up of this project, but here is what I posted on PatternReview. Pattern Description: Simplicity amazing fit dress pattern for miss & plus sizes features bust darts & contrast side panels. individual patterns included for slim, average and curvy fit & cup sizes b, c, d for miss & c, d, dd for plus. Pattern Sizing: I got the plus envelope. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? More or less considering my struggles with all my fit issues. Were the instructions easy to follow? Pretty much yes. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the styling lines, which is why I bought it. Nothing in particular I disliked because I think all my fit adjustments would have been needed on any dress pattern. The "amazing fit" process with cup size bodice pieces and hip size skirt pieces did simplify things a bit. Fabric Used: A mystery knit, I want to say some kind of jersey, cotton or rayon or a blend of them. I bought it at the thrift store years ago, which is why I didn't do a two-tone dress. Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Fit adjustments Widen skirt at hip through hem by adding width and waist dart front and back (back already had 2 darts I made one bigger, front had zero, added one) Lots of pooling in small of back, also gapping at back neckline so took in entire center back seam for 1" reduction Took up hem about 2" Took in shoulder line inner and outer, neckline now looks like boat neck, also offset the straps to modify gapping at front neck Took in excess gapping at armhole front and back by moving inset seams toward bodice Style and construction adjustments Didn't use contrast panels Used a knit rather than recommended woven Using a stretchy knit meant I could remove the zipper altogether Using a knit and the zillion armscye modifications meant the facings weren't worth it, so I used a bias facing technique. I used a bit of ribbon and a plain straight stitch to stabilize the shoulder seams. Also added lingerie keeper straps after these photos were taken! Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Now that I've made all these changes, I would 100% make this again (with more fit adjustments like to neckline width front, neckline gaping in the back, raise the armhole depth, lower the bust point, and preferably eliminate the front skirt darts I added. I do want a slip, though, because knits cling against tights, for sure. Conclusion: Pattern review agrees, this dress is worth it!

dress with leather jacket

Jeans Butterick 5403 checking in...

I've been working on jeans for several days. I cut a 3X muslin and tried it on and it was ridiculous. I took 2 inches out of the front and back crotch length, I took another 1.5 inch height  off of the yoke, then I started working on the waist. I took several inches in on the waist tapering down to the hip. At that point I decided to cut another muslin. I modified the pattern to more or less duplicate what I'd done to the muslin. I added two inches to the inseam, to make it my length of 30 inches. I'm cutting the second muslin right now. On the legs I managed to cut the back but the front I didn't have enough muslin fabric length! So I'm patching some more fabric so I can cut the full leg. Next I'm going to cut the yoke. Hopefully by the end of the day I will've been able to try this muslin on.

 Denim fabric

I'm not sure which is more exciting, having custom fit jeans or this awesome denim I snapped up at a Joanns sale. If I recall correctly, it is made in USA (I wouldn't have bought it if it was a shitty import). It's cotton, and non-stretch.

Look at this ridiculous yoke, so tall. Wish I saw this picture before I started. Also ridic for a jeans pattern? No fly shield, no coin pocket. Butterick no longer offers a plus size jeans pattern.

http://butterick.mccall.com/b5403-products-10316.php?page_id=408

Chiffon blouse: What a journey!

Well I made the last few stitches today and now it's hanging on my wall :)
Of course it's not really done until I've worn it... And I will take pictures when I do.
My overall impression of this experience has been that this is an easy pattern, chiffon isn't hard to work with if you have plenty of tricks, and I still really love this fabric.
I very much like having stripe matched as much as I did.
The hardest thing was finding a usable hem finish. My machine roller foot would just not work with chiffon. Too squirrelly. I ended up doing a hand rolled hem.
The most annoying part was when I found a bright pink stain on the bust piece!

Lame!

I had to recut the piece. I did have plenty of yardage left over so it was more irritating than anything. Here you see the piece is wrinkled because it's wet. While working on this garment I kept it flat and starched.

Speaking of washing, after I cut I realized I had never washed the fabric. Usually I was right after I buy but this fabric just got bagged and then ignored for a year. I believe in washing before cutting.

Well I've run out of things to say so until next time...

Chiffon blouse: Sewing progress

The bodice is complete and here I have basted it to the skirty part. Do you like my stripe matching at center front? Eh pretty good?!

Let's make a blouse!

At some point last year I was shopping with my mum in Santa Barbara. We went to Fine Fabrics on State St. and picked up an amazing length of snake print silk chiffon in white and teal. I knew I wanted to make a sexy, floaty top with it. The owner helped me eyeball how much to get and I ended up with 2.75 yd because she cuts generously.
You know how it goes. The fabric sat around for a year while I was busy with other things. And so 2015 was the year I did no sewing. Well 2016 is upon us and my obligations have mostly cleared up. The chiffon started calling to me.
I contemplated for literally weeks before I decided on the kind of top I wanted. I knew I wanted maximum floatiness. I considered how it looked over white versus black, and black won hands down.

Print over white is ethereal

Print over black is vivid

 I considered getting silk charmeuse (satin) or silk crepe to underline. I looked at pictures of slips and chemises from the 1920s to the present. I rejected bias cut because of the stripe found in the snake print. I considered drafting something myself. I considered various kinds of darts.
Then it came to me. I had a sleeveless blouse pattern, that I'd used before, that would probably work with a woven.

Fabric is striped

More Baby Clothes

Hoodie

Just did the onesie on the left