Fabric Tips: Woven, Non-Woven, Knits, Interfacing PDF Resources!

We have made it to the end of my interminable PDf series! (There will be one final post with a big surprise though...) So this is the thirteeth and final post of collections of DOWNLOADABLE PDF pamphlets. I have gathered these from around the web - almost entirely from various American university cooperative extension programs or university archives of such. (If you are not familiar with extension programs, they are pretty cool. They date back to 1914 and are the precursor to community colleges.) Please note that these are historic resources. They may refer to methods and items that are no longer sold or considered safe (home dry cleaning with gasoline, I'm looking at you). Do not follow such advice without exploring modern resources and using your best judgement. This batch I have three lists as follows. Enjoy. Fabric Tips Wovens & Non-Wovens; General Fabric Info Fabric Tips: Interfacing Fabric Tips: Knits Fabric Tips Wovens & Non-Wovens; General Fabric Info
Year	Title	Author	Publisher
1950	Rayon Dress Fabrics: Their Selection, Behavior, Care	Elizabeth M. Birong	Montana State Univ.
1954	Sewing the New Fabrics	--	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1954	Man-Made Fibers and Fabrics	Helen Rocke	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1956	Suggestions for Sewing the Newer Fabrics	Julie E. Brekke	North Dakota State Univ.
1965	Wash and Wear Fabrics	Gerda Petersen	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1965	Laminated and Bonded Fabrics	Gerda Petersen	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1965	Leather	Gerda Petersen	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1965	Stretch Fabrics	Gerda Petersen	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1969	Vinyls and Simulated Leathers	Gerda Petersen	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1969	Sheers	Gerda Petersen	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1969	Laces	Gerda Petersen	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1972	Durable Press	Gerda Petersen	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1977	Working with Leather	Jane Speece	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1985	Wool and Wool Blends	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1986	Sewing the Silkies	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1988	Sewing with Denim	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1991	Sewing with Micro-Fibers	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1991	Micro-Fibers	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1997	Tencel Lyocell, the New Generic Fiber	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000	Sewing With Voile	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000	Sewing with Velveteen	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000	Sewing with Velvet	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000	Sewing with Microfibers	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000	Sewing with Tencel	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000	Sewing with Lycra Blends	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000	Sewing with Outerwear Sports Fabric	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000	Sewing with Rayon Challis	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000	Sewing with Sand-Washed Fabrics	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000	Sewing with Silky-Textured Fabrics	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2013	The Burn Test	from Mary Elliott, Elaine Zarse	Threads Magazine

Fabric Tips: Interfacing
Year	Title	Author	Publisher
1962	Interfacing	Marian Tudor, Freda Record	North Dakota State Univ.
1966	Interfacings	Gerda Petersen	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1981	Selecting and Using Interfacing	Marilyn Stryker	Kansas State Univ.
1993	Interfacings	Gerda Petersen, Kathleen Tolman	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2006	Selecting and Applying Interfacing	from Cynthia Klumpp	Texas A&M Univ.

Fabric Tips: Knits
Year	Title	Author	Publisher
2007	Fleece Facts	--	Utah State Univ.
1992	Clothing Management: Knit Know-How	Louise Young	Utah State Univ.
2007	Considerations for Knit fabrics	--	Utah State Univ.
1965	Knitted Fabrics	Georgia Petersen	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1980	All About Sewing Knits	Becky Saunders	Texas A&M Univ.
1992	Sewing with Knit Fabrics	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2000	Sewing with Knits	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2006	Sewing with Knit Fabrics	Marjorie M. Baker from Linda Heaton, Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Kentucky

General Tips, Pressing, Sewing Preparation PDF resources

Tailoring Touches, 1974

From my apparently interminable supply, here is the twelfth post of DOWNLOADABLE PDF pamphlets. I have gathered these from around the web - almost entirely from various American university cooperative extension programs or university archives of such. (If you are not familiar with extension programs, they are pretty cool. They date back to 1914 and are the precursor to community colleges.)

Please note that these are historic resources. They may refer to methods and items that are no longer sold or considered safe (home dry cleaning with gasoline, I'm looking at you). Do not follow such advice without exploring modern resources and using your best judgement. This batch I have two lists: General Tips & Pressing and Preparation.

Enjoy!

General Tips
Year	Title	Author	Publisher
1940	Decorative Finishes for Home Sewing	Helen Rocke	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1944	Time Savers in Sewing	Helen Rocke	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1958	Finishes for Little Girls Dresses	Gerda Petersen	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1959	Fabrics for Quality and Beauty	Gerda Petersen	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1974	Tailoring Touches	Jane Speece	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1979	Guidelines for Quality Clothing Construction	Becky Culp	Texas A&M Univ.
1981	Shaping a Tailored Garment	Linda K . Biles	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1982	Facings Made Sew-Easy	Lenda Jo Anderson	Auburn Univ.
1982	How to Sew Faster	Lenda Jo Anderson	Auburn Univ.
1984	Topstitching	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1984	Sewing for Children	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1985	Short Cut Tailoring Techniques: Shoulder Shapes	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2004	Hand Stitches	Revised by Marjorie M. Baker	Univ. of Kentucky
2004	Measuring Up: Quality Standards for Sewn Items/Projects	Kay Hendrickson, Jan Killer, Nancy Mordhorst	4H at Pacific Northwest Extension (WA State, OR State, Univ. of ID)
2004	Clothing Quality Standards	(adapted from) Cynthia Klumpp	Texas A&M Univ.
2009	Bias Strips, Single and Continuous	Marjorie M. Baker	Univ. of Kentucky
2012	Sewing Technique: Backstitch (hand)	Sandra Bradshaw, Lindsay Maxfield, Teisha Thompson, Lindsey Shirley	Utah State Univ.
2012	Sewing Technique: Casing	Shanna Haws, Lindsey Shirley	Utah State Univ.
2012	Sewing Techniques: Straight Ruffle	Sarah Geer, Chanae Weller, Jen Giddens, Lindsey Shirley	Utah State Univ.
2012	Sewing Techniques: Circular Ruffle	Sarah Geer, Chanae Weller, Jen Giddens, Lindsey Shirley	Utah State Univ.

Pressing and Preparation
Year	Title	Author	Publisher
1960	Pressing Methods	Helen Rocke	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1960	Pressing Equipment	Helen Rocke	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1970	Follow that Grainline	Jane Speece	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1972	Pressing Equipment	Jane Speece	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1977	Pressing Methods	Thelma Thompson	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1979	Measure Your Sew - How: Pressing Points	Marlene Odle-Kemp	Texas A&M Univ.
1983	Follow That Grainline	Linda K . Biles	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1986	Sewing Ups and Downs: Placement of Fabric and/or Garment Pieces for Machine Sewing	Anna Marie White	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1991	Preparing Fabric for Use	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln

Seams, Seam Finishes, Darts, Gathers... PDFs

Machine Stitching and Tucks, 1955

From my apparently interminable supply, here is the eleventh post of DOWNLOADABLE PDF pamphlets. I have gathered these from around the web - almost entirely from various American university cooperative extension programs or university archives of such. (If you are not familiar with extension programs, they are pretty cool. They date back to 1914 and are the precursor to community colleges.)

Please note that these are historic resources. They may refer to methods and items that are no longer sold or considered safe (home dry cleaning with gasoline, I'm looking at you). Do not follow such advice without exploring modern resources and using your best judgement. This batch I have two lists: Seams and Seam Finishes; Darts, Gathers, Tucks, Pleats, etc.

Enjoy!

Seams and Seam Finishes
Year	Title	Author	Publisher
1981	Seam Finishes	Lenda Jo Anderson	Auburn Univ.
1981	Seam Finishes	Linda K . Biles	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1999	Seam Finishes for a Plain Seam	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2003	Seams and Seam Finishes	Linda Heaton	Univ. of Kentucky
2011	Sewing Technique- Flat-Felled Seam	Jen Giddens, Sarah Geer, Lindsey Shirley, Chanae Weller	Utah State Univ.
2012	Sewing Technique- French Seam	Sarah Geer, Jen Giddens, Chanae Weller, Lindsey Shirley	Utah State Univ.
2012	Creating a Well-Constructed Machine Stitch	Sarah Geer, Lindsey Shirley	Utah State Univ.
2012	Sewing Techniques: Basting Stitch	Shanna Haws, Lindsey Shirley	Utah State Univ.
2014	Seams and Seam Finishes	Linda Heaton, Marjorie M. Baker	Univ. of Kentucky

Darts, Gathers, Tucks, Pleats etc.
Year	Title	Author	Publisher
1955	Machine Stitching and Tucks	Helen Rocke	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2007	Darts, Ease, Gathers, Pleats, Shirring, Tucks	Revised by Marjorie M. Baker	Univ. of Kentucky
2012	Sewing Technique: Box Pleat	Sandra Bradshaw, Lindsay Maxfield, Teisha Thompson, Lindsey Shirley	Utah State Univ.
2012	Sewing Technique: Knife Pleats	Sandra Bradshaw, Lindsay Maxfield, Teisha Thompson, Lindsey Shirley	Utah State Univ.
2012	Sewing Technique: Darts	Sandra Bradshaw, Lindsay Maxfield, Teisha Thompson, Lindsey Shirley	Utah State Univ.

Mending: The Hemmed Patch

THE HEMMED PATCH Right handers should sew right to left (as shown) and Lefties, left to right.

Introduction

For this series I am going through an old sewing book and experimenting with the projects within it. The book is called "The Sewing Book, Containing Complete Instructions in Sewing and Simple Garment-making for Children in Primary and Grammar Grades," Edited by Anne L. Jessup, Published by the Butterick Publishing Company, New York NY, 1913. The book is out of copyright (and free to all). It has been scanned as part of the Google Books effort and is available in various formats, visit https://books.google.com/books/about/The_Sewing_Book.html?id=b7wwAQAAMAAJ

Hemmed Patch

[Practice] Supplies

Checked or Striped Gingham, 5 by 5 inches and 3 by 3 inches; White Cotton, no. 50; Needle, No. 8, etc.

[Instructions]

Fold the larger piece of material and cut as before [Fold the larger square diagonally in half and fold again point to point. Measure down from the top of the triangle an inch on each side and cut across, making a square hole in the center representing the hold in the garment where the worn part of the goods around the hold has been cut away evenly.]. If the square is not perfectly accurate, pull a thread of the material at the sides and test the evenness of the edge. In each corner make a diagonal cut a quarter of an inch in depth. If the edges are not cut on a thread and the diagonal cuts in the corners are not the same depth, the patch will look badly.

Turn the edges down on the wrong side of the patch the depth of the cut; place the patch agaist these turned edges, basting the larger piece of goods over the patch, with the tripes or plaids matching. (Ill. No. 3.)

Hem on the right side, and avoid beginning or ending in a corner. Turn to the wrong side and hem the patch on the garment like a flat fell, turning in a quarter of an inch fold. (Ill. No. 4.) This hem or fell should be half an inch in depth.

Note:-- Care must be taken to hold the work properly in hemming the patch down on the wrong side, sewing always from right to left [left handers should work left to right], the stitches being nearly paralell with the edge of the fold and not vertical.

This patch is suitable for any cotton garment which requires laundering or for bed linen. The finished edge makes it strong, but it shows the double row of hemming.i

My Practice Patch

Front view

Front view close up

View from Wrong Side

View from Wrong Side Close Up

Book page with Hemmed Patch Instructions and Illustration

Work in Progress Pictures

squaring off the hole

marking corner cuts

Pressed under edges

Pressed under edges wrong side

I wanted to baste down these edges

Then you press under the edges of the patch (no need to cut off corners) and baste it down under the patch 

Stitching in progress

This shows the basting holding it together as I stitch

Comments

My main piece of advice is be careful about cutting the corners on the garment as you can see in the close up, right side that one corner looks rough. Next piece of advice: when making the hemming stitch, if the needle is at an angle the stitch will look straight vertical, the back side will show a diagonal stitch. I was doing it with the needle vertical, showing a diagonal stitch on the front and vertical on the back (you can see this in the blue thread in the center of the hole).

This is 100% my favorite patch, and I did five kinds. This patch is WASHABLE and with both edges hidden, will not fray. I recommend this patch for all items that go in the washer and dryer.

Measurement Chart for Women: Fillable, Printable PDF

JUST A SAMPLE, the real thing is readable.

If you sew women's clothes, or want to, one essential element is a list of accurate body measurements. I simply cannot understate how important this is to have. In the interest of making my life easier and your life easier, I have made a chart of all the measurements you will need to make garments for any woman you measure.

This chart lists thirty-four separate dimensions of the body. Take them all or just take the ones needed for the garment you want. This chart has all the appropriate dimensions for tops, dresses, skirts, pants and shorts, jumpsuits, and outerwear. (Glove, shoe/sock, and bra-specific measurements not listed.)

You will never need another women's measurement chart.

Do you think I should modify this chart? Let me know in the comments!

This post has been reposted from original post date of 1/16/14, to share the new, updated chart.

• Spreadsheet version
• This file is just the chart.
• View, print, or save just the blank chart as a spreadsheet or PDF.
• Save a version to your own machine or cloud to fill out, modify, or whatever you want.
• PDF version
• This PDF has two pages: one is the chart, the other is a diagram guide.
• View, print, or save the blank chart.
• This PDF is a fillable form, save to your machine or cloud to fill out (if you use a mac and want it to stay filled out on another computer, use the save as PDF option in the print menu, won't be re-editable but will be readable).

Sewing help PDFs: Zippers, snaps, hooks, eyes, buttons, buttonholes, elastic, etc!

Exhalted Notions, 1971

From my apparently interminable supply, here is the ninth post of DOWNLOADABLE PDF pamphlets. I have gathered these from around the web - almost entirely from various American university cooperative extension programs or university archives of such. (If you are not familiar with extension programs, they are pretty cool. They date back to 1914 and are the precursor to community colleges.)

Please note that these are historic resources. They may refer to methods and items that are no longer sold or considered safe (home dry cleaning with gasoline, I'm looking at you). Do not follow such advice without exploring modern resources and using your best judgement. This batch I have one list, Fasteners and Elastics.

Enjoy!

Fasteners & Elastics
Year	Title	Author	Publisher
1955	Knots and Loops	Helen Rocke	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1961	Easy Zipper Methods	Anna Marie Kreifels	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1971	Bound Buttonholes	Jane Speece	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1971	Exalted Notions	Jane Speece	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1973	Zipper Methods	Anna Marie Kreifels, Jane Speece	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
1983	Buttonholes and Buttons Made Sew-Easy	Evelyn L. Brannon	Auburn Univ.
2000	Sewing with Elastic	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. of Nebraska, Lincoln
2004	Hooks and Eyes, Snaps, and Tape Fasteners	Revised by Marjorie M. Baker	Univ. of Kentucky
2004	Hand Zippers	Revised by Marjorie M. Baker	Univ. of Kentucky
2007	Zippers	Revised by Marjorie M. Baker	Univ. of Kentucky
2007	Buttons and Buttonholes	Revised by Marjorie M. Baker	Univ. of Kentucky
2010	Machine Buttonholes Made Easy	Revised by Robin C. Mack	New Mexico State Univ.
2011	Sewing Technique: Centered Zipper	Sara Geer, Jen Giddens, Chance Weller, Lindsey Shirley	Utah State Univ.
2011	Sewing Technique: Hand Worked Keyhole Buttonhole	Jen Giddens, Sarah Geer, Lindsey Shirley, Chanae Weller
2012	Sewing Technique: Invisible Zipper	Jen Giddens, Sarah Geer, Lindsey Shirley, Chanae Weller	Utah State Univ.
2012	Sewing Technique: Lapped Zipper	Sandra Bradshaw, Lindsay Maxfield, Teisha Thompson, Lindsey Shirley	Utah State Univ.
2012	Sewing Technique: Buttons	Sandra Bradshaw	Utah State Univ.
2012	Sewing Technique: Attaching Garment Fasteners	Sandra Bradshaw, Teisha Thompson, Lindsay Maxfield, Lindsey Shirley	Utah State Univ.

Sewing Machines, Sergers, Needles, Threads, Reference Charts - PDFs!

Here is another list of DOWNLOADABLE PDF pamphlets I have gathered from around the web - almost entirely from various American university cooperative extension programs or university archives of such. (If you are not familiar with extension programs, they are pretty cool. They date back to 1914 and are the precursor to community colleges.) This is the fifth post in my Resource series. Please note that these are historic resources. They may refer to methods and items that are no longer sold or considered safe (home dry cleaning with gasoline, I'm looking at you). Do not follow such advice without exploring modern resources and using your best judgement. This batch I have two lists: Sewing Machines and Sergers; and Needles, Threads, Glossaries, Charts. Enjoy! Sewing Machines and Sergers
Year	Title	Author	Publisher
1932	Know Your Sewing Machine	Paul R. Hoff	Univ. Nebraska, Lincoln
1943	Your Sewing Machine: Care and Adjustment	Lucy R. Lane	Oregon State Univ.
1950	Cleaning and Adjusting Your Sewing Machine	Helen Rocke, John C. Steele	Univ. Nebraska, Lincoln
1950	Buying a Sewing Machine	Julia E. Brekke	North Dakota Ag. College
1956	Your Sewing Machine	Julia E. Brekke	North Dakota Ag. College
1956	Satisfaction from Your Sewing Machine	Helen Rocke	Univ. Nebraska, Lincoln
1979	Measure Your Sew - How: Sewing Tools	Becky Saunders	Texas A&M Univ.
1981	Measure Your Sew - How: Thread Tips	Ann Vanderpoorten	Texas A&M Univ.
1981	Measure Your Sew - How: Solving Common Sewing Machine Problems	Beverly Rhoades	Texas A&M Univ.
1992	Clothing Management: Serger Sense	Louise Young	Utah State University
1993	Buying a Serger	Rose Marie Tondl, Kathleen Heiden	Univ. Nebraska, Lincoln
1996	What You Ought To Know About Sewing Machine Needles	Rose Marie Tondl	Univ. Nebraska, Lincoln
2007	Serger Basics	Marjorie Baker	Univ. of Kentucky
2008	Selecting a Serger	Marjorie Baker	Univ. of Kentucky

Needles, Threads, Glossaries, Charts...
Year	Title	Author	Publisher
1969	As you Sew with Suitable Thread	Gerda Petersen	Univ. Nebraska, Lincoln
1991	Thread Facts	Rose Marie Tondl, Wendy Rich	Univ. Nebraska, Lincoln
2002	A Thread of Truth: A Factual Look at Sewing Thread	--	YLI Corp.
2006	Glossary of Sewing Terms	from Cynthia Klumpp	Texas A&M Univ.
2006	Personal Measurement Chart	from Becky Culp	Texas A&M Univ.
2008	Basic Sewing Supplies	Debra Proctor, Ronda H. Olsen, Karen Biers	Utah State Univ.
2011	Sewing Glossary	Sarah Geer, Lindsey Shirley	Utah State Univ.
2011	Finest Quality Hand Sewing Needles	--	John James Needles
2016	Women's Measurement Chart	--	Handmade on Broadway

Quick hit: Remove Annoying Garment Tags and Tacks!

 How to Remove Annoying Tags on Clothes

YOU CAN remove the single straight line of stitching to get this tag off!

We've all experienced giant, flappy, or worse, itchy garment tags. Good news, everybody! Many tags can be removed without damaging the garment and with hardly any effort.

1. Determine how the label is attached.
2. If attached with a single, independent line of stitches, rip out with seam ripper, razor blade, manicure scissors/clippers, etc.
3. There are only two steps!

YOU CAN remove the single straight line of stitching to get this tag out!

I like to use a seam ripper

Ta Da!

 Ivory garment and multicolored garment with black stitching: Examples of one independent line of stitching for just the tag; these tags are suitable for being removed.

DO NOT try to remove stitching to get this tag out!

Orange/white garment with orange stitching: Example of tag sewn on with a construction seam and NOT suitable for removal. This tag is installed in a serged seam (very common).

DO NOT try to remove stitching to get this tag out!

Purple garment: Example of tag sewn on with a construction seam and NOT suitable for removal. This tag is installed in a flat felled seam.
If you are very compelled to remove all tags because of special needs or extra sensitive skin, it is possible to rip apart a construction seam to get the tag out and restitch the seam with matching thread. This is more advanced but any person who sews or tailor/dry cleaner can easily do it. Obviously you can also just trim the tag down with scissors but I find this to be still itchy.

While we're at it...

Remove Ugly Thread Tacks!

Do you see the ugly thread tack? It's black and right in the middle.

I like to use a seam ripper.

Looks Great! A quick press will get those tiny holes to disappear.

Bonus content today is an example of a thread tack - the type used often in pants to hold on paper/cardboard size & brand labels for easy identification in store. These tacks are MEANT TO BE REMOVED. Use that trusty blade (seam ripper, razor blade, manicure scissors/clippers, etc.) to remove these little buggers and leave the house in style.

Image from RealMenRealStyle who are just as annoyed by this as I am

Dude, I recently watched a whole play where freaking Benedic (the lead in Much Ado About Nothing) had not removed the cross stitch from his obviously-new suit jacket. Child, you look silly. Remove this tack and you will look fly. If you're wondering why it's even there, it's so the garment hangs nicely on the rack and for ease of transport. BTW, temporary stitching is also used for pockets and lapels on jackets, pockets on pants, pleats in things like skirts, and holding the brand name label to the cuff of jackets and coats.
I will say my mum does not remove basting stitches on pants pockets because she prefers the smooth line of a no-pocket pant. Personally I use pockets all the time, whether for hands, or objects, and therefore automatically remove all basting stitches. Team pockets.

Mending: The Catch-Stitch Patch

Introduction

For this series I am going through an old sewing book and experimenting with the projects within it. The book is called "The Sewing Book,  Containing Complete Instructions in Sewing and Simple Garment-making for Children in Primary and Grammar Grades," Edited by Anne L. Jessup, Published by the Butterick Publishing Company, New York NY, 1913. The book is out of copyright (and free to all). It has been scanned as part of the Google Books effort and is available in various formats, visit https://books.google.com/books/about/The_Sewing_Book.html?id=b7wwAQAAMAAJ

Catch-stitched Patch

[Practice] Supplies

Flannel, either striped or plain, 5 by 5 inches, and 3 by 3 inches; Cotton, no. 60 or sewing silk the color of the flannel; Needle, No. 8, etc.

[Instructions]

This patch is suitable for underwear. Cut away the torn part, forming a square hole. Baste the patch under the hole, matching the warp and woof lines. Catch-stitch on the right side, taking the lower stitches just below the edge, the upper ones about a quarter of an inch above the edge. Turn to the wrong side and catch-stitch the patch to the garment. The edge of the patch should not extend more than three-quarters of an inch on the wrong side around the square.

Note

The single edges are used in this patch to avoid the thickness of folded edges of material of this kind. The stitches should be small and very even, one being taken diagonally in each corner.

My Practice Patch

My Comments

We may be most familiar with flannel as cotton "flannelette," in things like winter pajamas and plaid shirts. Wool flannel is still available today.  See some flannel underwear here.
When I made this sample patch, I had no wool flannel scraps. I used some cotton flannelette. Obviously the black/blue side is the right side and the white side is the wrong side. As you can see my hand stitches are uneven. For that reason I would only do this kind of patch on a solid fabric where the stitching would be less visible on the front. If your stitches are even, then that wouldn't be a problem. The front stitching (first in instructions) was easy to execute. The stitching on the back seemed just as easy but after refreshing my memory on the catch-stitch, it turns out I should have taken the lower part of the stitch through both layers of fabric. That would add some more stability. These stitches are barely visible on the front, which is nice.
I would recommend this type of patch if you know the fabric won't show (e.g. underwear is covered up), won't fray (or won't be washed or hard-worn), if it is dyed through (not a print like the flannelette I used as the white shows in little bits on the front), and if the fabric is too thick or uncooperative for other types of patches.
This patch is designed for be made with hand stitching (but it's only one kind of stitch, which is nice and easy). To machine stitch this patch perhaps a zig-zag or better yet three-step zig-zag would work. However these stitches will show more, by which I mean the second line of stitching that is worked from the wrong side will be just as visible on the front as the first right-side stitches. Other patches are better suited to machine stitching.

The Catch-Stitch

Because I'm so nice, I'm also providing the catch-stitch instructions from the book with added left handed instructions because duh.