Thursday, July 5, 2012

That looks comfy: Simplicity 2409 Jersey Top

I'm happy with how this top, Simplicity 2409 view F by Khalia Ali, came out.
Having had success with other of Khalia Ali's styles, I decided to try a short sleeved top, for summer. This view F has flutter type sleeves that are laid over a tank style bodice. Attaching the sleeves was the only difficult part of this pattern. It is an overlay so you just have to think it through carefully. The center of the bodice is separated from the sides on a long seam located close to the bust point; it is on that seam that the flutter piece is added like cheese in a sandwich. Once I figured all that out, the rest went pretty smoothly.
I do recommend you get a ball point needle if you do this project in a knit. After I did this garment I did one more thing in a knit, but with a ball point needle in the machine, and it went much more smoothly. The only seam that I had trouble with on this top was the long lower hem. Could have a better finish.
Also don't forget for this view there is a bias binding neckline. I made my own bias strips from a nice coral colored linen scrap I had lying about. If you use a solid colored fabric for the garment you could really bring in something interesting to your neckline if you wanted, such as a contrast solid or a print.
In the future I will remake this top, as jersey fabric comes to me. I also would remake this but add a lower panel, to make a "maxi" (long) dress.
I don't wish to dwell on how my figure illustrates this, but this pattern is a "suitable for maternity" (i.e., pregnant women). There's a few versions of the tops, they all have an empire line, and you could modify it to a dress. For the spring/summer pregnancy, this would be a real favorite for casual wear. You could also make this up and not have to worry about how much bigger your bump gets, because any size is accommodated, and wear it after the pregnancy as the bump fades away. This pattern is available in regular women's sizes as well as plus.
What I did with this top is not fully enclose my elastic (at the underbust). The casing is completed most of the way around, but instead of stitching together my elastic ends, I tied them, and left the whole knot out of the stitching. That way I can replace the elastic if it gets ruined in the wash, or retie it shorter if the top becomes too big. This is an idea for you pregnant ladies! The only concern you'd have as your pregnancy develops is keeping an eye on your lower hem. You could start with an unfinished, even hem that is a little long, and modify it later with a hand stitched hem so the front doesn't look like it is too high in the front, and finally let it back out after the pregnancy. Just an idea.
Whatever the status of your uterus, bear in mind that if you are short (and/or your fabric is quite drapey), you will need to take some length off the hem. Obviously this top came out quite long on me, which I'm OK with. Another four inches and it's a dress, though, so if you're 5'2" just go ahead and modify the pattern before you cut. Unless you do want a dress in which case lucky you.
I have worn this top several times now and I always feel pretty in it. At one point I got a compliment, so that was nice. I think there are a few reasons why I like to wear it.
1. It is loose and long and drapey, and downplays any figure flaws
2. The color is very flattering to me
3. I made it, lol.
I was quite happy working with the April Johnson for Project Runway jersey fabric. There's a noticeable right and wrong side with the slub finish, but don't let that deter you. I easily found matching thread. I look forward to new fabric collections from Project Runway participants, especially ones in natural fibers.
(Fun fact: rayon is a "semi synthetic." It's made from wood, but the cellulose is obtained in a lengthy chemical process, leaving it in a grey area of not a natural fiber, and not a man-made fiber either. Rayon has quite a following, however, for it's silky hand and lovely drape in all kinds of wovens, jerseys, and blends.)

Front view

Top has bias binding at neck.

Rear view.