Tuesday, June 25, 2013
Self-Drafted Summer Top in White Linen
We had a pretty evil heat wave a few weeks ago - a record breaking 110. Hot weather always makes me want to reach for natural fiber garments... and with the sweat situation, preferably not knits! Linens are completely made for hot weather, no? I picked up this linen cotton blend in a practical bleachable white during a recent sale.
Then, I challenged myself to make a top with only one yard. And draft it myself.
Using Eileen Fisher as an inspiration, I made up this boxy number with kimono sleeves, longer back, and a faced neckline with a broad shape.
I used the back neck piece from a previous make and sort of riffed from there. I made it about an inch wide and only dropped the front about an inch lower (not really low enough). All the other seams were straight lines, so it was dead easy to draft and fairly simple to construct other than the neckline.
I gave the shoulder a flat felled seam and just turned the seam allowance for the arm opening - the same idea as the side vent.
The lower edge of the garment is selvage (after a few times in the wash it did need some stitching but the edge is still raw).
In fact if you visualize that the lower hem is selvedge, you can see how I drafted it out of a yard. Shoulder to shoulder was 30" and the last six was used for the neck pieces. Fabric was 58" so neck area of front and back pieces meet in the middle during layout. It may break some grain rules but it's not really something that matters on a summer top in a solid colored plain weave.
If you have never worked with linen before I do recommend a cotton linen blend. Linens can be a really loose weave (in mid and bottomweights) but the cotton just brings it all together for a great everyday look and feel. So not only can you bleach it, you can steam iron the hell out of it and use copious amounts of starch. An excellent excuse to practice your precision ironing with various seam finishes and construction techniques. It's even easy to hand finish.
I do wear this shirt. It is not exactly the best shape for me in the rear but it's nothing a few contour darts can't solve. Something to try next time!
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